L'Angelo AzzurroRome

We walked into Angelo Azzurro without a reservation, which is only natural: it's a neighborhood pasticceria-bar, one of those no-frills Roman places that has stayed exactly the same since the '70s and '80s. No shiny new counters, no charming outdoor seating. That kind of place, in short. But we'd heard good things about the maritozzo, and that's what we were there for.

Inside, there are signs hanging on the walls making a point of telling you that their pastries have a long rising time, over 24 hours. You can tell they believe in it.

Let's start with the disappointment, if you can even call it that: the chocolate sacchettino. A classic Italian bar staple, nothing special, it didn't wow us and a week from now I won't remember it. Oh well, these things happen.

The maritozzo, on the other hand, is a different story. Good, authentic, honest. Yes, honest is the right word, one of those sweets that don't try to impress you, and that's exactly why they work. The baking is perfect, neither too much nor too little. The cream is sweet and incredibly fresh, and that alone does half the work. I liked it a lot.

The bill? For the two of us, we spent 6.10 euros. The maritozzo costs 2.20, so more than fair, which in Rome these days is not a given. For 3 euros a head you get the whole experience, and with a clear conscience too.

Ah, let me say it again about the sacchettino: it's not that it's bad, it's just that at the counter there are a thousand identical ones. The maritozzo is the reason it's worth stepping inside.

Will I go back? Yes, but for the maritozzo. The rest I'll leave right where it is.