Lo'steria

Saturday evening, Ponte Milvio. We ended up at Lo'steria almost by chance — or at least, without much planning. The place is small, industrial decor, unpretentious. The outdoor seating was closed, a shame. They bring you the menu on a little blackboard at the table plus a verbal off-menu list. First thing you notice: the entrance door has giant fork and spoon handles. Charming.

We start with the pasta, which is why you go there. Cacio e pepe is good, genuinely creamy — not that botched fake version you find in half the places in Rome. Maybe a touch too much cheese, but it works. Carbonata is also good, matchstick-crispy guanciale, silky cream and plenty of pepper. Gricia sits right there with them, though a bit light on the lard. The amatriciana, though — fail: brown color instead of red, a burnt note you can taste in the tomato, not enough pecorino. That one needs redoing.

The appetizers: a bag of fried things with supplì, battered vegetables and meatball — all solid. The carciofo alla giudia was good, crispy outer leaves, stem served separately, not greasy. The platter of Roman cured meats and cheeses was weighted too heavily toward cheese and nothing really sticks with you.

Oh, the tiramisu. Served in a little jar, with some kind of cheesecake crumble underneath instead of ladyfingers, cream all air and hardly any mascarpone, not a trace of coffee. Meh.

The bill came with four meringues complimentary — nice touch. 21€ a head in Rome on a Saturday night, with this quality? Really good value.

Will we go back? Yes, but we're skipping the amatriciana.