Agrodolce London

I'm in London for work and a couple of people had pointed me toward Agrodolce, in Fitzrovia, as the right place for a proper carbonara. Not strictly Roman, they said, but Italian cooking done right. Well, I went.

I started with supplì. Mistake. Here in London it seems the custom is to bring you two on a small plate — that alone raised an eyebrow — and let's just say my suspicion was justified. Good frying, crispy, that part was fine. But inside? Rice with barely any seasoning, traces of mozzarella, no stretch, no gooey center. Supplì failed without question.

Carbonara is the reason I was there. So here's the thing: it wasn't a cream, it was a broth. Egg and pecorino very liquid, pasta swimming instead of being coated. A shame, because the mezze maniche were al dente, that part they got right. The guanciale cut like matchsticks, lean, not crispy, a bit tough to chew. In Rome it would be a poor 4.5 out of 10. In London, where the average level is what it is, let's say a stretched 6 — the overall flavor wasn't something to spit out.

Oh, one thing: I paid by card and they only brought me the pre-bill. No actual receipt. Not sure if they brought that habit over from Italy.

Prices are London prices: 18 pounds for the carbonara, 7 for the two supplì. On the menu there was also amatriciana, gricia, cacio e pepe, saltimbocca.

For London it might make sense to go. For Rome, no.